My two pitbull mix dogs have what our trainer calls a reactivity issue which creates anxiety and causes barking when they are around unfamiliar dogs.  This behavior stops once they "get to know" the other dog.  They have both been through no less than 3 obedience classes and excelled.  My husband and I bought a house in January and then brought a new puppy home, a pure bred American Pitbull Terrier, in late May.  My neighbors have "trained" my older two dogs to think they are a threat by throwing things over the fence at them and screaming at them to shut up if they're barking reguardless of the REASON they are barking (most of the time it's because the 4 chihuahuas down the street ar barking their heads off).  It's caused major issues between myself and the neighbors and on two occasions now they have called animal control and said we have vicous dogs and they are terrified that they will be attacked and of course AC had to come visit us.  The new puppy (now 4 months old) is very laid back and quiet and has not had the same issues as the other two because we started her training and socialization early.  While they are still afraid of her because of the breed they seem to have less problem with her.  I have tried talking to my neighbors, asking them not to throw treats over the fence as it puts the dogs on the defensive and to stop their own dog from "charging" the fence and barking.  I also tried to get them to go to mediation and they refused.  My worry is that eventually AC will take my dogs on a he said/she said case because of the number of calls they are making.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I want to help my neighbors be more comfortable around my dogs but also, I want to try to help my dogs feel safe in my home. 

That's a tough one, as Pit Bulls recieve such negative press attention. According to Brian Kilcommons, trainer and author of several books including Paws to Consider, and Great Dogs, Good Owners, pits are in the top 10 dogs that average people should not own. You have quite the uphill battle. If your dogs are continually barking, and also charge the fence when the neighbor's dog or any other dog is around, then you do not have control of your dogs. You must prove to the neighbors that you are in control. Your trainer should be able to help you with unneccessary barking, and how to keep your dogs from reacting to things thrown over the fence, such as having them "place" when there is some sort of stimulus that you don't want them to react to. This is also helpful in situations such as when someone is at the front door, and the dogs must wait in their "place" before they may greet that person, as opposed to jumping all over them as soon as they enter the home. Training, training, training is the most important. Get your dogs certified as Canine Good Citizens, if you haven't already. The local ASPCA will have courses and certification events available. If your trainer can't help with those items, then get another trainer.

Also, don't leave your dogs outside unsupervised, which, unfortunatley, most people do.

I have a slightly similar problem, as my neighbor's kids have done SOMETHING to my dog Eli thru the fence, and now he will not tolerate children, when once apon a time he loved them. The best I can do is post "Beware of Dog" and "No Tresspassing" signs on the property line. When the neighbor's kids are in the front yard, we go to the back, and when they are in the back, we go to the front. It's a pain, but it helps. Constant reinforcement of previous training, and the setting of limits, is a must with him. Otherwise he is impossible to live with.

I hope you are able to work things out.

Susie gave you good advice. I would add to it with the following:

I would keep a diary writing down everything you observe that your neighbors are doing affecting your problem. Make sure you include dates and times. This is just in case it could be needed at a later date and it will be very helpful in a "he said, she said" situation. That said, as tempting as it can be, I would avoid any confrontation with your neighbors that can escalate negatively or go into a "cold war" situation.

I agree with Susie that it would appear your trainer  has let you down a bit. It's not enough to observe and understand a diagnosis and not give you the proper tools to solve the problem. I would engage a new trainer who is familiar with the problem beforehand and understands how to solve a solvable problem. I would encourage you to take your dogs' acquired obedience skills and take them religiously for walks around the neighborhood as a pack unit and to confront the outside stimuli that they react to from a distance. Let the neighbors see you and, as difficult as it might be, be pleasant and maybe wave in your passing and over time you may be able to win them over or at least desensitize their reactions and bring some calm to the situation. The purpose of the trainer would be for to at least once observe your walking procedure and the timing and method of your corrections should your dogs hopefully react to influences you wish to correct. Corrections must be issued instantly and appropriately or nothing will be accomplished. When the dogs give signs of focusing on things you do not want them to react to, i.e. body posture, tail, ears, etc., you must instantly and appropriately remove them from that frame of mind. 

Another thing you can do for the barking while at home is to incorporate a citronella bark collar. This is not an electrical shock or buzz instrument. I am in the minority but I don't believe in those instruments or think they are necessary.It is unrealistic and unfair to discourage your dog from barking if it’s trying to alert you to something; this can have dangerous consequences. Along with training, a Citronella Bark Collar is the most effective and humane solution to stop diagnosed problem barking.Shock collars are inappropriate and attempt to reduce barking with pain, are less effective and may increase anxiety and aggression, potentially making behavior problems worse.Ultra-sonic collars are not as severe as the pain of electrical shock; however, behavior experts report that they have 25% the success rate as with the Citronella Bark Collar.The Citronella Bark Collar spray works with four of your dog’s five senses; he hears it, sees it, feels it and smells it. Citronella is a unique scent, nonoffensive to humans, which most dogs don’t normally encounter so unusual enough to distract the dog from whatever he’s barking at. It's worth a try. And, I wish you success in a very stressful situation.

Best,

Jay 

 

 

Jay also gives great advice. Once again, training and proper correction is stressed. I agree with the use of a citronella bark collar. It is effective without being cruel. Another alternative is the sonic bark collar, which distracts the dog by emitting a high pitched tone. I used it once when we lived in a small apartment, and Eli did find it distracting, if not confusing. I eventually stopped using it because watching E search for the source of the tone was kinda sad:( 

We are all pulling for you , and hope that things will work out in everyone's favor.

 I come from a different perspective than the others who posted. I think that with management and positive reinforcement this is a problem you can overcome. So, first I would ask you to consider not using "corrections" on your dogs or a collar. These two methods are at base punishing your dogs for things that aren't their fault. At the very least those methods will amp up the tension, stress and frustration your dogs are feeling. So what do you do? First, manage the situation by keeping your dogs away from the fence line where your neighbors harass them. How to do this without keeping them inside all day? Have you considered building a secondary fence line about 2-3 ft, or more if neccessary, behind the one you currently have? That way no one can throw treats to them, no one can get in their face and yell at them, there is a buffer zone. If your neighbors are being rude you can walk into the buffer zone without your dogs jumping around all over you and ask them to stop. Second, reward your dogs for doing the behaviors you like. At first that may mean giving them a treat in between their barking fits. Bark bark bark...pause..treat!...Bark bark bark. Soon your dogs will see the pattern and being quiet will be more rewarding that barking. They will begin to test out being quiet. Go outside with your dogs and do this when your neighbors are out there. Its a great game "Oh the neighbors are outside! Let's all go look at them (quietly) and eat treats!" Once they get this game you can up the criteria in any way that fits for you. Lengthen the amount of time they need to be quiet to get the treat, have them look at you to get a treat, go lay down facing away from the neighbors to get a treat etc etc. This is not a problem that can't be solved! You can do it. If you need any more help just post...

Sarroar

www.wellbehaveddingo.com 

 Sarroar, you make some very good possible suggestions, however a collar and a leash would never be considered a punishment by any standard when used properly for training. For training to be effective, a dog must understand both leash pressure and verbal cues such as sit, down, come, etc. If one of these components is missing then confusion is the result. We are not suggesting prong , shock, or choke, however even choke would not be considered punishment if used properly. Even a choke collar to be used properly does not involve chocking. It is to be used in a snap release translating a message through the sound not the choking physical restraint. A trainer who believes the momentary strangling of a dog to teach  not to pull on the leash is necessary is hardly a friend of dogs—and certainly not worth the fee. I will grant that most people use the choke collar incorrectly, in which case the halter would be the better choice. Halters for dogs—based on the same principles as halters for horses and ponies—achieve terrific control mechanically  by changing leverage points. If such were the case that dogs viewed the collar and leash as punishment it would not be the basic training tool advocated by I would venture to say 99.99% of the training community and canine family members in many a household would not jump for joy upon seeing the master/pack leader reach for the leash signaling a walk. Dogs are pack animals and it is important for them to know where they fit into the pack meaning your family and who is in charge, which should be the human family members. Dogs are happier as  followers and not leaders;  without the proper training and guidance, many dogs will attempt to take on the role of leader and you will have little succes in controlling them in the yard or any place else. Starting with the basic leash training gives a dog security in understanding that a pack leader is communicating the leadership role which by all measures allows a dog to find emotional balance. Every capable professional working dog will spend time on leash as well as off leash and punishment does not enter the equation.

Sarroar,

I do believe that some of your suggestions may be sound. But, I think some are impractical. The installation of a secondary fence line is intriguing until you consider how it will be maintained, and still be asthetically pleasing and easy to care for. Some people don't care if their property looks a mess, but I do. Some cities will cite the homeowner if the weeds/grass gets too high. Maintaining the area between the two fences is going to be a pain in the butt.

As far as corrections go, that's the way the dog knows he did something wrong. Given swiftly and correctly, the dog is not harmed. He feels a little pressure, and hears a strange noise in his ear. I have put a prong collar around my wrist while someone else gave a "correction", and there was no pain or discomfort. The dog should then be praised for correcting his own behavior.

As far as using treats, I don't know. My own dogs(Corgis) are pretty upset when other dogs approach their territory. I can tell you that enticing them with a cookie doesn't work.Miss Dix will go inside when asked in that sort of situation. Eli, no. Sometimes he will "get the toy"  when asked, but, if the offensive stimulus doesn't  go away, it's game on and no holds barred. Cookies won't cut it with him.

Each dog is an individual. What works is up to him and his guardian. I would be interested in knowing how things are going with our original poster.